I just returned from a week exploring Sicily.
I’ve been eyeing a trip there ever since watching the White Lotus season that was filmed in Taormina.
I went into the trip with a ton of suggestions for what to do — here's the full list of what made the cut.
🏨 Where to stay in Sicily
We based ourselves in Taormina, and I'd do that again in a heartbeat.
It's the luxe anchor on the east coast. Think clifftop views, walkable old town, and easy access to Etna and the Ionian beaches.
Grand Hotel San Pietro – Where we stayed, and I booked it on points — rare for this part of Italy. A quiet, elevated perch above town with knockout views.
San Domenico Palace, A Four Seasons Hotel – The White Lotus hotel. A former convent turned icon, and the most famous address in Taormina.
Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea – The beach-level Belmond at Mazzarò, right by Isola Bella. (There's also the hilltop sister property, Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, next to the Greek Theatre.)
If you'd rather skip the east coast crowds, the west side of the island is a different (and quieter) trip. I didn't stay out there this time, but two spots are on my list:
Villa Igiea, A Rocco Forte Hotel – The grand-dame of Palermo. A restored seafront villa with a Rocco Forte polish.
Verdura Resort – The big resort play on the southwest coast. Golf, spa, and a long stretch of private Mediterranean coastline.
🍽️ Eat & drink in Sicily
Anciovi (Four Seasons San Domenico Palace, Taormina) – The seafood-forward spot at the Four Seasons. A splurge, but a memorable one. And you can even tour the hotel before dinner.
Bell'assai (Isola Bella) – Where we landed for lunch near the beach.
Pasta Bistrot (Catania) – Pasta done right in a casual room. Worth the stop if you're passing through.
Puros (Syracuse) – My pizza pick in Syracuse. Hit it after wandering Ortigia.
Don Diego (Taormina) – My favorite gelato stop.
Pasticceria Maria Grammatico (Erice) – Worth a detour west for the almond pastries if you make it to Erice.
Caffè Sicilia (Noto) – The famous granita-and-pastry institution in Noto. Touristy, but the granita lives up to the hype.
Cortile Spirito Santo (Ortigia) – Casual, lively, and a good intro to street-food-style Catanese cooking.
La Cefalu Nostrana - Great sandwiches a few blocks from the Duomo in Cefalu. Eat them on the nearby rocks overlooking the ocean.
Amorelli Graniteria Siciliana - granita in Cefalu’s old town, refreshing lemon and strawberry flavors
📍 What to do in Sicily
Explore Taormina – The old town is made for wandering. Walk Corso Umberto, then escape the crowds with the hike up to the Saracen Castle for a 360-degree view of the coast and Etna.
Greek Theatre of Taormina – The ancient amphitheater, with Etna framed right behind the stage. Perfect during golden hour.
Isola Bella – The tiny island nature reserve below town, with the beach near the Belmond villa.
Mount Etna – The hike plus the cable car was the highlight. Worth it, full stop. Go with a guide if you want to get higher up the craters.
Syracuse + Ortigia – The old island core of Ortigia is the highlight. Easy to spend a full day here.
Noto – The Baroque jewel of the southeast. Golden buildings, a stunning cathedral, and delectable granita.
Catania – A lively city right in the shadow of Mount Etna, worth an afternoon. Walk the old town near the Duomo — big piazzas, churches, and a Greek theatre — then hit the crowded bars, restaurants, and gelato shops on and around Via Etnea.
Valley of the Temples (Agrigento) – If you make it to the south coast, the Greek temples are some of the best-preserved anywhere.
Cefalu - A Gothic town on the north coast with a totally different feel from the Greek and Baroque east. Amazing beach, plus a great hour-long hike up to the castle (La Rocca) with views the whole way.
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